Slacking back to Damascus

Driver Larry showed up too early, since I was still eating eggs and pancakes at 6am courtesy of Crazy Larry. I had said 6:30 for pickup, since I didn't want to start in the dark. We got to the trail crossing at 7am, and waited for the blazes to be visible at 7:15 before I started. First 1/2 mile was handicapped accessible, a gravel path through pasture ending at a bench with view to east, but still not yet sunrise. Then up along ridge, nice easy leaf filled trail. Pretty much the story all day, rolling along up knobs and down gaps. I took my time, nice steady pace for an all day stroll with my light weight on my back.



After my quick lunch at old no longer used shelter, I met the 3 southbounders who I shared the taxi with into Marion. They had taken a sunny zero day yesterday in Damascus, surprised to see me. They didn't seem too concerned about the forecast. But two older hikers were hoping to get picked up tomorrow morning at the road crossing I hiked from, if their shuttle can make it in the snow. Forecast remains for 4-8 inches starting tonight and for most of Saturday.

My birthday present to myself today was to finally finish the trail in VA.



Rain started after 2pm, first just as faint misting; it got colder as well, and I was glad to reach town at 4:30, just over 9 hours to do 22 miles.
A dreary drizzily Halloween for trick or treating.

Damascus VA

Cold damp night, but nice star gazing, and only 2 mice (last shelter bagged 3). Lazy start since only 10 miles to town, still hiking at 8:15 since I'm eager to get there. Downhill into cold fog in valley, briefly on the Creeper trail due to detour because of washed out AT bridge, then back uphill until final descent to town, again on the Creeper. First hostel I pass is Crazy Larry's. He's having a permanent yardsale and I buy a National Geographic scarf for a buck. He shows me around, feeds me leftover pancakes with hot tea, and tells me about the other hostels: one closed for the season, another closed due to bed bugs, but the Methodist hostel is still open-- where Rodney and I stayed in 1982. But he makes quite the sakes pitch, bed, shower, laundry, and breakfast all for $25. Interesting life story thrown in for free: ran away from home at age 7 to hide in the woods, juvenile delinquency, drugs, fled arrest and hid on the AT for 3 years, then turning himself and serving his sentence. But very nice guy, full of stories, says he likes to write, knows everyone on the trail. Only "crazy" to distinguish him from all the other Larrys he knows, like his friend Larry who drives me to grocery and library, and offers to drive me tomorrow 11 miles so I can slack back 22 miles to Damascus. Which sounds good because forecast is for accumulating snow Halloween night and Saturday, 4+ inches? Crazy. I might be stuck here awhile, but nice town, even has a brewery!

Two hard days

I fortunately was given a 7:30am ride back to the trail from Mary, who looks after the Troutdale hostel. Cold morning, but trail easy enough to hike 10 miles in 4 hours, even with my heavy food bag. Lunch at shelter, aiming to do another 11 miles for a very long day through the Grayson Highlands. Trail much steeper and rougher until I reach the 5,000 ft elevation open plateau, famous for the wild ponies who keep it open grassland. The ponies originally were brought from Chincoteague. Longhorn cattle also graze here in the summer, but they had just been rounded up and taken back down for the winter. I saw two groups of ponies; a group of five was closest to the trail, and uninterested in me (no feeding allowed)


This high plains part of the state park has a very different landscape, almost western.




Clouded up as I neared Mt. Rogers, and I only got to the shelter at Thomas Knob (5,430 ft) at dusk, after a 21.2 mile day.

Wednesday was cold and drizzly to start, with light rain falling as I left the shelter. Curiously the privy was handicapped accessible with a ramp and grab bars. Long downhill in the damp in my rain gear. Take off rain pants for steep climb up Whitetop, and into cold fog and wind. Another long downhill, into pasture land. Back in woods I surprised a guy who said he was fox squirrel hunting. He thought he heard an animal downhill and was startled when I said hello behind him. I'd heard a rifle shot when I stopped for early lunch, but he said he missed. Cross highway, then more up and down until shelter at 2pm. Quick snack, enjoying chance to sit down -- which you don't do much in the wet. And downhill again until the AT meets the Virginia Creeper trail. This railbed was built to haul lumber out of the Mt. Rogers area, active between 1907 and 1927, but now a railtrail running all the way to Damascus. I remember crossing it in 1982.


 The AT leaves this nice level trail after less than 1/2 mile to pursue the usual pointless ups and downs. Finally get to Saunders shelter at 5:30, after 18.8 miles -- total of 40 miles in 2 days. The sun finally comes out for sunset, and but clear night means cold chill, even at only 3,378 ft.

Bible Belt

Several days to catch up since I've been in rugged wilderness with little if any cell service, even on the peaks. I took the 50 cent transit from Marion back to the trail--what a great service, my own personal bus shuttle! Cool and sunny, nice walking trails in the park to start. Met several section hikers, out for week or so, including AT Spike. He first did the trail in 1977, with just $1,000 to spend. He started at North Adams on the MA/VT border and walked home to VA, about 1,000 miles. Only now getting back to finish what he started.
After lunch and about 9 miles, I crossed a gravel road where Jerry and Brian were checking their trail magic bins (empty except for bandaids and gospel books). Proud members of Valley Missionary Baptist church, they gave me cookies and proselytized and explained all that they do on behalf of hikers.



Then I hiked steepy up hill for a few miles and just as steeply down to a paved road, where I hoped to hitch to a different Baptist church's hostel. Took a while, but I was finally picked up by a couple from Cape Cod visiting the area. Troutdale Baptist Church has showers in back and a separate little building with bunks. Two hikers had recommended it, even though hard to get to. Glad I came, since the hiker box was full of treats and staples. Too bad I was already well resupplied in Marion, but I gorged anyway.

Marion, VA

Glorious blue sky day, very windy, and noisy with the wind in the trees and crisp crunch of leaves. The slippery leaves cover the trail as well as the rocks lurking underneath, so I stumble and slide along and my feet and achillles tendons complain accordingly. Sun warm but breeze keeps me cool. Seeing deer everyday, practically tame, don't they know it's hunting season (bow and arrow now)? Saw two hunters walking onto the trail from Atkins yesterday evening.
Tonight I'm in a motel again, having come into this town to resupply. Couldn't hitch a ride, so called a taxi and shared the $16 fare with 3 southbounders also out of food. Tomorrow I can ride Marion Transit back for just 50 cents (doesn't run on Sundays, thus the taxi today).

I left Troutville 2 weeks ago today, 194 miles ago. Still have 257 miles to Hot Springs.

Atkins VA

Several cool, cloudy and windy days, and very cold nights, but now warming up, sunny and 60's today. Two days ago I got turned around after a break, with no sun to guide me, and not paying attention. I hiked in reverse over a mile until I realized I was retracing my steps-- noticed the exact same bear scat I had passed earlier, walked on a bit more to confirm before turning around and heading "south" again. Directions are misleading, since the trail twists and turns so much in this area. Can go any and all compass directions it seems. Mostly ridge walking, sometimes rock scrambling on the crest, or else following contour lines slabbing the slopes. The open meadow pictured below was a nice change.
Today's thrill was finding 2 coolers filled with trail magic, only the 3rd time this year: last April with Rodney, and apples and sodas in Maine. Today was Little Debbie oatmeal cakes plus granola bars, and I skipped the sodas. But hikers do appreciate this generosity on the part of strangers.
The trail cosses I-81 in Atkins, and I couldn't resist this cheap motel with a restaurant nearby. Unfortunately the only vegetarian selection was a "combo plate" with macaroni, cottage cheese and potato salad on a bed of lettuce. I'll go back for egg breakfast tomorrow before hiking to Marion 12 miles away for resupply.

Bland, VA

I hiked over 21 miles yesterday, even after a somewhat late start from Woods Hole after 8:30am. The trail was not too hilly, until late in the day, mostly rolling ridge-walking. I made good time through the low-lying Dismal Creek swamp area, with its many stream crossings. This was the scene of the 1981 murders, though the trail was quickly relocated and a new shelter built afterwards.
I got to Jenny Knob shelter at 6:30, at dusk with drizzle starting. Tired. Rain fell as I cooked in the dark, and it turned very cold later. Dark, damp morning as well, little light at 7am, and I left the shelter at 8am, intending another very long day, 24 miles to a shelter. Up on the ridge the wind and drizzle intensified, but the ridgewalking was not too hard. Slippery leaves and rocks, however, kept my attention focused. I met one hiker heading north, who told me of his stay in the last town, Bland. After 10 miles in 4 hours, stopped for quick lunch at noon. Then downhill steeply, wet, and slippery, and out to road leading over I-77, then scenic highway US route 52 after 1pm. Windy and wet, temps barely in the 40's. I'm cold and tired, and decide not to try to hike yet another 12 miles today, and instead try to hitch to motel. 2 cars later a woman stops, says she always picks up hikers here. So I'm now in a motel, warm and dry and well fed, content. Tomorrow's another day, and might warm up to the 50's and less chance of rain.
And since I rushed so much, no new photos, so here's a shot of Woods Hole owner Neville and me. And of some of the other denizens of the farm.

Woods Hole rest day

After a huge organic breakfast I decided I couldn't leave such a wonderful hostel. Farm to explore, books to read, yoga and massage later, and then dinner to look forward to. Plus it may rain late afternoon, and overnight into tomorrow.

This hostel was started in 1986 by Neville's grandmother, and Neville spent summers here growing up and helping out. She met her husband Michael here when he thruhiked in 2006, got married in 2008 and inherited the farm after promising to keep it going as a hostel. The original 1880 cabin has been extensively renovated, very modern as well as rustic. It's now both a hiker hostel and spiritual retreat, with a primitive bunkhouse and more upscale rooms -- I went for comfort, heated room and indoor plumbing to relax the day away.






The only cell service is out in the goat and pig field. They also raise cattle. Great sunrise this morning looking out in the gap.

Woods Hole hostel

Very rustic farm hostel with yoga, massage, even sauna. Out to dinner with owners, who inherited her grandparents place, 1/2 mile off trail. Yet we went out to dinner at a pretty upscale place in a small town, whose clientel drive over from college towns like Blacksburg (Virginia Tech). I had craft beer and good pizza (arugula as a spinach subsitute).

Pearisburg memories

The hike yesterday brought back 1982 as I distinctly remembered some parts of trail, especially the open meadows and old orchards at Symms Gap. I didn't stay at the Catholic church hostel this time since it was closed for the season. But I remember our stay there, since the trial of the local man accused of murdering 2 AT thruhikers the previous year was underway and a reporter showed up to ask for hiker reactions. The 2 hikers were social workers raising money for a special needs kids camp. They were at a shelter 20 miles south of here, and were shot and stabbed during the night. I remember Rodney telling the reporter that we hikers shouldn't be be too quick to judge what might have happened. "We're the outsiders here," he said, not to excuse this tragedy but because so little was known and the trial was still underway.
The accused man, Randall Lee Smith, was found with some of their hiking gear. He was convicted of 2nd degree murder, sentenced to 30 years, paroled after 15. In 2008 he tried to kill 2 fishermen in the same area, with the same pistol (not found after the 1981 murders). They were seriously injured but escaped, and Smith was immediately suspected. He was injured in a car chase, and died a few days later in jail.
I stayed at this motel hostel with K-dog (coonskin hat), and Smith's cousin Jerry, seated on cot, down on his luck waiting for his SS check. He said he had played his guitar in front of the grocery and got enough to pay for the night. Jerry said he remembered playing with his cousin as kids, and said he guessed that he just wasn't right in his head. Never know who you'll meet on the trail.

Pearisburg VA

Left 4 Pines hostel 3 days ago, after learning that the group of 8 kids who partied so heartily didn't donate a dime for their 2 days there. Plus a pack of my cheese was gone from the refridgerator. So much for trusting. And I talked with Eddie and A.J. about their experience with the Twelve Tribes in Rutland. A.J., the tall one, is native American, an ordained Pentecostal minister with degrees from bible colleges in his home state of Oklahoma. Yet somehow he fell into the world of the Twelve Tribes and spent a year serving, as he put it, a "slave." Working double or triple shifts at their soap factory or Yellow Deli, he was told not to complain, and was even denied medical attention. Eddie joined in Rutland last year when he was hiking through. He and A.J. managed to escape together and sought refuge down here with Joe the owner of 4 Pines, where they help out with the hostel, the shuttling, and the farm. So clearly the public face of this cult that I experienced in Maine is not the whole story. Again, so much for trusting and having faith in human nature.



2nd day out I climbed one of the countless ridges in drizzle, and crossed
the eastern divide.



Yet the sun did come out later for some distant views west.



Today I walked 20 miles to get to Pearisburg, in a cold breeze and late drizzle, staying in a motel basement "hostel" since all the rooms in town are taken by gas line builders. Will take a more leisurely 11 mile hike tomorrow to yet another hostel that I've heard good things about.

Dragon's Tooth slack day

Rain during the night filled the streams, but just mist and low clouds this morning. All 9 of us shuttled out to the next road crossing south, but only I was slacking back to the hostel. The others took their packs and skipped this 16 mile section in their hurry to be done with the trail. They did leave a lot of beer and food behind from their party day yesterday.




Humid to start but the sun finally broke through midday and I was able to finally have views.



Here's the Dragon's Tooth

Rain day, Catawba

I was all set to slack pack 16 miles back to this hostel with the others, but it was raining at 7am and they voted to stay dry. Rather than pay for the whole ride myself I stayed as well. Rain stopped, sun poked through, but heavy rain forecast for this afternoon so a rest day instead.

Catawba, Four Pines hostel

Rain let up yesterday after church (Methodist) with Homer, while Teresa volunteered in the nursery. I should have mentioned they thru-hiked in 2002 with their then 11yr old daughter and 8yr old son.
On trail about 1:30, dripping mist all afternoon, into shelter 10 miles later at dusk. Quiet night, no mice, out into fog in the morning. Again no views. Nice ridge walking, and the most photographed spot on the trail, McAfee's Knob.



Now at funky hostel, 3 bay garage full of young southbounders. Rain forecast continues.

Troutville VA

It took 14 hours travel time to get here yesterday, but Amtrak is so much better than the buses I took leaving here last April to return home after Rodney's death. Much better frame of mind as well.
I stayed with Homer Witcher last night, who was so kind back then shuttling me around to police station, funeral home, and bus station. His daughter Karla picked me up in Roanoke last night, and I met his wife Teresa this morning. But right now it's pouring rain as I sit in their kitchen and I'm waiting it out until it lets up. Memories of rainy Virginia in 1982 come to mind.

Maine wrapup

I had such a wonderful time hiking in Maine that it's hard to let go. Despite all the hardships, the challenging terrain and the breathtaking views were magnificent. Far and away my favorite part of the AT. The encounters (and re-encounters) with fellow hikers, especially at the end on Katahdin, were so much fun. Even the limited cell service wasn't a problem, since I managed to go into lots of towns with nice hostels, and all those shuttle possibilities!
I leave for Virginia on Saturday to finish the final 350 miles of my second complete AT experience. Here are some more Maine photos that I neglected to fit in. And an update on that "white rainbow" -- actually a "fog bow", a rainbow produced by tiny water droplets of fog, with much weaker colors so it appears white.

The "tablelands" on top of Katahdin before the summit


Hungry Horse, Bliss, and Dory heading to the top, with Catfish, as he and I started back down.


"Shoes" -- 75 year old and not the oldest hiker this year; so named because he once started a section hike only to realize he'd forgotten his hiking boots at home.


The final shuttle ride, from the hostel in Millinocket to catch our bus to all go home: happy campers!

Katahdin 0 mile 2,185.3

Cool and misty morning, low clouds, and no views going up the mountain until above treeline and into blue sky. And then an amazing white rainbow appeared. Tough climbing up the rocks, some of it requiring iron rungs as handholds to claw and scramble uphill.

















At the top the obligatory beer (or champagne) toast and then a photo with the summit sign.





And for me a moment to place some of Rodney's ashes on the commemorative cairn and share a final beer with him.