Rodney Montgomery, 1955-2014

My brother died late Sunday night at the shelter I left him at, from gastrointestinal bleeding. He was found in his sleeping bag Monday morning by thruhikers camping there. A family of day hikers talked with him Saturday at lunch time, gave him food, and asked if he needed help or wanted a ride. He declined. I don't understand this, and fully blame myself for leaving him, but he died as he preferred to live, on his own terms, on a trail in the woods.

I've arranged for his cremation, collected his gear, and am catching a bus home. My heart just isn't into continuing hiking in these beautiful hills without him, quite yet.

Troutville

No sign of Rodney yet at our rendezvous, the town park here in Troutville with free camping, showers and laundry.
Instead I meet a young Swede named Daniel who's biking on the Bikecentennial Trail to Portland.
Yesterday was Easter, and my personal Easter bunny was in the form of a portly proud Republican in a bright green shirt who lives near one of the shelters I passed. He was sitting on a green bucket seat, and we chatted about his book on his 2 tours in Vietnam ("flying helicopters and killing people"), how much he hates Obama, and how even at 71 he still hopes to shoot a bear. But he treated me to a chocolate mint energy bar and some juicy candy much like jelly beans.
Continuing the ex-military theme, 2 nights ago I shared a shelter with 2 former marines, complete opposites. "Tuesday" is hiking the trail with ultra light high tech gear--he enlisted in 1968, 2 tours in Vietnam, then career as recruiter and information management. Retired and worked a decade in Silicon Valley, cashing out before the crash, consulting since then. Lou is local out for the weekend, brakeman at a train freight yard, carrying all ancient g.i. gear, including his Civil War reenactor axe.

Cove Mountain

Another overcast today, but warmer and humid. Talked with a weekend hiker who's a medic, and he said this stomach flu is highly contagious and widespread locally. He's caught it twice from patients, so it is not just thruhikers and boy scouts who get it. Apparently the Howard Johnson in Daleville has a cheap hiker rate and has served as a "casualty ward" for northbounders.
Met some more interesting hikers, including 69 year old Nubbins, a woman who started in Pearisburg and seems to be doing just fine. Plus a pleasant English couple and a young German couple and his brother.

Thunder Ridge

Cool and overcast, perfect for climbing back above 3,500 ft. Views muted, and little sign of spring up high. Have met lots of northbounders last 2 days, a third of them young women, including Emerald and Frog Monkey below. Usual mix of trail names, Ibix, Moxie, Raven Cloud, SkinnyD, Ufta, P.A. system- - you guessed it, quite loud and opinionated. Told all I meet about Rodney, a.k.a. Rotten, including several hikers with cars, in case they could help.

Ridge above Matt's Creek

Rodney is still sick, vomited again last night, and any hill climbing is beyond him for now, so our plan is to meet at the next town in 3 days, 52 trail miles from here. I hope some day hiker takes pity on him and drives him, otherwise he'll hitch. As for me, it feels great to be moving again.

Matt's Creek shelter day 2

Two days ago we climbed up Bluff Mt., where there is a sad memorial for Ottie Cline Powell, age 4 years 11 months, who strayed 7 miles from school in Nov. 1890. The marker on top of the mountain is where his body was found the next April.
Murky and misty as we descended to cross the James River. Unfortunately Rodney became sick after lunch, so we stopped at this shelter. We spent yesterday sitting out the rain, and the freezing temperatures last night, but Rodney still is sick so I hitched into town for more food, as well as this stop now in the library for more books and to recharge my phone.

Punchbowl shelter

Left town refreshed and resupplied this morning, and started with nice walking along Brown Mountain Creek, once the site of a farming community made up of former slaves. There were two signboards describing their way of life, this one was about the "ash cakes" one man remembered his mother making.

But very warm this afternoon as we sweated  climbing back up toward the Blue Ridge Parkway, and the flies were out again in force. The wind helped a little, plus the fact that the bugs quit at sunset.
There is a birdnest inside this shelter and an upset sparrow trying to fly in.

Buena Vista

Rained briefly during the late evening before clearing and cooling, with bright moon and stars. Folks driving in set up 8 or 9 tents, popular place. We got moving by 8am, at roadside shortly after 11, then had to wait for the shuttle to the Blue Dog Art Cafe hostel. 9 miles down and around the mountains, dramatic difference with spring in full bloom down here. Hostel opened just two years ago, upstairs from the cafe. A bit primitive but hot showers and convenient location. The existence of all  these private hostels is a huge change from 1982, when there were only a few, plus several church run ones.

Hog Camp Gap

Very different day today, compared to the strenous two since Waynesboro. The Priest heading south is one of the tougher climbs on the AT, but the trail today was gentler. However, warm and humid and chance of thunderstorms brought the bugs out with a vengeance. Tonight we're camping on a grassy hillside where the breeze helps keep the black flies off. We'll go into the next town tomorrow for resupply and showers, and avoid the bugs for a night.
And a word about the trail magic we encountered two days ago. Folks sometimes leave food out for hikers, and only beer would have made Rodney happier. And there were oranges and more sodas and cookies at the shelter.

The Priest

Last two days have featured steep slopes, switchbacks and scrambles. Now on top of our first 4,000 footer, and first cell service.

Paul Wolfe shelter

Beautiful shelter just 5 miles out of Waynesboro. On the way we passed an old foundation and a small, sad cemetery brightened by daffodils.
We had a great town stop, getting in during the afternoon, had a relaxed evening and night (except for raucous snoring by northbound Dakota Joe), then plenty of time to resupply and do errands, driven around by our generous host Adam. He dropped us off back at the trailhead at 4pm. Cool and partly sunny, nice walk in to the shelter, located deep in a hollow with loud stream below. Lovely.

Waynesboro

Rain and a very cold wind this morning. We dawdled in our sleeping bags while the 2 women who tented and the northbound thruhiker Sparks packed up and headed out. We only had 8 miles to get to Rockfish Gap and the road to Waynesboro, so we finally got moving at 11am. Mist and drizzle and wind continued all day, but we got a quick ride directly to the YMCA and free showers. Then next door to the library and later the grocery store while we waited for the hostel host, a former thruhiker with trail name "Stanimal" to arrive. This evening we're mending (body and gear), doing laundry, and planning the next section
We've been out 2 weeks, over 150 miles with one rest day. A good start, given the weather, terrain, and our antique bodies.

SNP day 7

Blackrock Hut was interesting last night. Another hiker was already there and said the trail register warned about a rat living there.We scoffed,and I set up our two traps on my side of the shelter. Later both traps went off and we found a huge mouse had a trap on its front leg. Easily 4 times larger than normal size. Mickey the  mutant mouse was cornered but managed to escape the big stick Rodney attacked it with, leaving behind the trap.
We're going to need a larger trap.

We're lolling in the sun after late lunch at a parking area along Skyline Drive, hoping to Yogi Bear some food. Sure enough someone just gave us an apple and orange. Beautiful cool hiking today.
Tomorrow out of the park and into Waynesboro.

SNP day 6

Rained briefly last night, then cleared, brilliant stars after moon set.. Cold and windy this morning, only put shorts on mid afternoon. Cooling off fast tonight. We did over 21 miles, will probably regret it tomorrow.
Highlight of day was finding a chestnut tree, with some nuts still on it way up high. Sadly the blight will probably get it. Back before the 1930's the majority of trees in Appalachia were chestnuts, prized for the cash crop of nuts as well as rot resistant wood.

SNP day 5

Nice walking in the morning today, sun and cool breeze despite forecasted showers. Nice sloping ridge down to Swift Gap and lunch. But then clouded up fast and cooled down, as we climbed back up high. But no rain yet as we stop early at Hightop Hut. Trail maintainer stopped by, said this shelter is notorious for mice. Gushing piped spring despite being on top of the mountain.
So on the mouse front: despite catching 2 last night before getting into our sleeping bags, I was surprised when a fat one landed on top of me much later. I flipped it toward the shelter opening but it landed short, next to Mark's head. He had to flick it out.

SNP day 4, Rodney's birthday

Rained last night, but held off today except for sprinkle when we got to the shelter mid afternoon. In honor of my baby brother's birthday, we left our packs under the bear guard of section hiker Mark and walked the mile up to Lewis Mt. Campground for beer. Half way through the park, something else to celebrate.

SNP day 3

Eating a brownie at Skyland resort, pricey place but comfortable chair out of the sun. Last 2 days have gotten warm in the afternoon with no shade. Trails nicely graded for tourists but still a workout with full pack. First butterflies yesterday, lots of tame deer, and using the mousetrap successfully in the shelters to ensure peaceful nights. Dumplings turned out better on the 2nd try.

Shenandoah NP

Walked through snow and slush and mud  yesterday, cold wind blowing. Limited cell service, so I'm taking advantage of lunch stop today on a ridge in sunshine. Drier trail, still cool and pleasant hiking. We've been out a week, feeling more comfortable and picking up the pace.