Sunday, March 30, 2014

Front Royal rest day

Raw wind, gusts to 30mph, rain then fat snow flakes sticking to the ground. Easy call to stay right here and drink tea and snack all day long. After a delicious breakfast Lisa gives us the tour of the main house, built in the 1840's, being slowly renovated but far from habitable. Note the brick columns. Their 5 year plan seems optimistic given its current condition. But this is their dream, to have a B&B and hiker hostel just 100 yards from the AT. They live and work near DC, but when guests are here one of them has to stay with them in the "cabbin" hostel (as spelled in the diary of the teenage daughter who watched Yankee troops march by and who helped keep them from stealing food). This small hostel was a originally a log structure,  dating perhaps to the 1780's and probably a slave cabin, then bricked in the 1920's and now thoroughly renovated. And cosy and warm!

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Front Royal

11 damp miles, mist and drizzle, yet lots of people out, including several groups of Koreans out day hiking. We have an early lunch at a shelter with a trio, and get to taste the pretty Easter pastel pastry stuffed with bean curd, plus tea. John has done some section hiking, even has trail name of Single Wok, and understands trail etiquette (feed a thru hiker).
We're staying at a brand new hiker hostel, run by Lisa and Scott--he thru hiked with their son in 2012. We are guests number 3 and 4, definitely beta. Lisa can't do enough for us, shuttling us to town for groceries and dropping us off for dinner. We end up at the Knotty Pine lounge, which according to the owner Beth was called by Jimmy Dean a long time ago on the Tonight Show the toughest bar he'd ever been in. A little nicer now, good juke box and cheap pitchers of beer.

Friday, March 28, 2014

Manassas Gap shelter

Light rain off and on this morning, then warming with some sunshine this afternoon. 13 miles, wearing shorts part of the time. Various sore body parts but no real complaints. Even our feet aren't too bad. We'll be in Front Royal tomorrow night.

Beth and Janet arrive at dusk, members of a Richmond hiking club, out for 4 days. Inquisitive but very pleasant company. At dark a Boy Scout group shows up, but they tent back up the trail.


Thursday, March 27, 2014

Rod Hollow shelter

Another cold day, sun and wind, lots of snow still on the ground. 10 miles of ups and downs, steep and slippery. Some melting this afternoon, and muddy down at this shelter. Very nice, piped spring, covered cook area. Experimenting with dumplings tonight, a favorite in 1982.

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Bears Den Hostel

Comfortable night in cabin, but cold NW wind blowing. After oatmeal and tea, we climb back up to ridge and hike through 4 inches of drifting snow. First few hours of walking not difficult, but then we start the 20 mile section known as the  "Rollercoaster" for its pitiless ups and downs. Quick lunch at view in photo, but too cold and blustery to linger. Eventually cross Snickers Gap (busy highway), then up to Bears Den and the hostel. Only 8 miles today. Hot shower, hot chocolate, and sore legs.

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Blackburn Trail Center

We left Harpers Ferry around 8am, snow flurries just starting. More than 3 inches have fallen, so we are staying here in a small cabin with wood stove, along with 3 other hikers. Also part of this nice place is a lodge with full kitchen, and the youth group staying let us cook an early dinner.
Quite comfortable after 12.5 miles. We also encountered our first thru hiker, a young woman and her dog striding fast over the snow. She started Jan.1 in Georgia, said it had been all snow like today so far.

Monday, March 24, 2014

Jackson Inn, Wilmington DE


  I met up with my brother at the Jackson Inn, our "local" when in our hometown, located just down the road from the cemetery our parents are buried. Rodney sometimes stays here with his long time friend Fred Bourdon, as have I twice now. While at the bar two nights ago I met a friend of Fred's, a fellow photographer named Peter B. Kaplan. He used to work for Life magazine, specializing in high places. He gave me his card -- a postcard of his "Moon over Manhattan" shot on top of one of the World Trade Center buildings at 1,600 feet showing ironworkers installing the antenna in 1970. He pointed out that the guy mooning eventually died from illnesses incurred from helping with the recovery work at Ground Zero.

We are now in Frederick MD, staying with old friends Bruce and Mary Beth Fleming, and will get a ride to Harpers Ferry tomorrow, weather permitting (snow in the forecast)

Friday, March 21, 2014

A few notes about the trail, and about this blog

There are many ways to hike the Appalachian Trail, but the goal should be to respect the trail, other hikers, and yourself. The crowds of eager hikers starting in Georgia in March and April thin out quickly, as people discover it's not what they expected, it's too hard, or they get injured or bored, or depressed when it rains everyday for weeks. Some come to test themselves, to prove something; some come to get away from their previous life, to renew themselves in some way; some to be alone and some to share the trip with fellow travelers; some to experience the terrain and wildlife and the "wilderness," such as it is. The traditional wisdom has always been to "hike your own hike" -- to not judge or compete with others, to accept what happens on its own terms, no matter how difficult or dreary at times.

People come to the trail with a variety of expectations. Some may have read Bill Bryson's humorous A walk in the woods. Yet while entertaining, his account only reflects his own experience. He hiked about 1/4 of the trail actually carrying a full pack, in Georgia, North Carolina/Tennesee, and parts of Virginia, briefly in Maine; he also did a number of day hikes in Pennsylvania and New Hampshire, and he calculated that he had hiked about 40% of it overall. He is a good writer, did some research and told a funny story that sold lots of copies. But his archly critical comments about other hikers and people in southern towns, and his impatience with the actual trail experience, suggest that he probably didn't enjoy it all that much. It was pretty clear that he would have preferred walking a different and easier trail, perhaps in more settled Europe, less wild and with no risk of encounters with bears.

As for me, I just like being outside, away from the everyday world, unscheduled, moving through a varied landscape,  enjoying the simple wholeness of it, appreciating the contrast with "normal" life. Out on the trail you walk, eat, sleep; repeat. Days and miles flow by, every day is different, every day the same, your thoughts go wherever they may. The trail becomes your life as you fit yourself to its demands, not your's or someone else's. You meet interesting (or maybe not) folks, experience the weather with little shelter, carry everything you need on your back, endure hardship and hunger and thirst and then go into a town and gorge yourself thoroughly, with real appetite.

And as for this blog, these entries will necessarily be intermittent, subject to the limits of battery life, phone service, access to towns.  These will be virtual postcards, hopefully of some slight interest, an easy way for me to share snippets of life as encountered on the Appalachian Trail.

Saturday, March 15, 2014

1982 to 2000




    My brother Rodney and I started hiking the Appalachian Trail in GA on April 9, 1982. He was 26 and I was 32; I was practically middle-aged compared to the other hikers, young kids just out of high school or college, or else retirees, many ex-military. We got as far as the Delaware Water Gap, more than half-way, on July 1, when we both left the trail. I had to go to a conference in Philadelphia to look for a job for the fall, and Rodney was out of money. In the full heat and humidity of summer, the soft life off-trail was too appealing to resist. I managed to get back on the trail later, hiking from Mt. Greylock in MA to Killington VT, and then the White Mountains in NH, Hanover to Pinkham Notch, before starting a job in September.


1982: Rodney and me in Harpers Ferry, happy to be out of Virginia at last


I eventually finished all the sections of the AT I had skipped by October, 2000, a week or two at a time, sometimes hiking with Rodney, his son Corey, or my son Miles. Over the years since then I've done another 1/4 of the trail, from Delaware Water Gap to Connecticut, Massachusetts into Vermont, and the White Mountains again. You never really leave the trail.
2000: finishing in Harpers Ferry, holding the 1982 photo

Now it's time to try again, at age 64, half my lifetime later: Rodney and I are starting from Harpers Ferry in late March and hiking south to GA by June; I'll be taking much of the summer off, then flipping up to Mt. Katahdin in ME in late August and hiking south in the fall.