Friday, May 30, 2014

Cosby Knob shelter

Started climbing down from the high ridges, only at 4,751 ft tonight after sleeping at 5,939 ft last night. Out of the park tomorrow morning, and I really enjoyed the Smokies. Cloudy night so no stars, but a nice sunrise. I also tried out my new plastic mouse traps, and caught 9 mice. Did 20.8 miles this cool misty and partly cloudy day, after yesterday evening's easy 3 from the road to the shelter. Expect to do 10 miles tomorrow and stay at another hostel just off the trail.

Thursday, May 29, 2014

Gatlinburg TN

Very warm as I wait for the motel's day guy to give me a free ride back up the 15 miles to Newfound Gap at 3:30. Thunderstorm looming-- yesterday a torrential downpour hit an hour after I hitched into town. 
I've enjoyed my 24 hours in this slice of schlock and glitz in the middle of a magnificent national park. Especially the 34oz. mug of IPA at the Smokey Mountain Brewpub. Even ran into some of the young party hikers unexpectedly (they hit the bars until 1am and then continued drinking as they played in their motel's outdoor pool until 4am with two Australian girls). Massive hangovers apparent, but they left for the trail hours ago, so that may finally be the last I see of them, unless in Maine later this summer.



Wildlife (?)

We've seen several bears and deer, placid and not very interested in us. The photo of the Double Springs shelter shows a deer lurking on the left. The two bears were munching away very close to the campsite and spring near which we stopped for lunch. I'm used to bears in my neighborhood, but for the citified young guys it was a thrill. They also quickly moved up the trail to finish their own lunches away from the bears. Speaking of fear of bears, Robert Rdford's next project will be playing Bill Bryson in the film version of A walk in the woods, with Nick Nolte as his bumbling friend Katz. Bizarre but true, with some location shooting already started, on Stone Mountain near Atlanta. Appropriately, like Bryson, not actually on the trail. Folks are already worried about how this will flood the trail with more wanttobe but ill-prepared thruhikers.


Wednesday, May 28, 2014

The social trail

I started on Springer at the same time as Spuds, JohnnyO, and JD (short for John Doe, the trail name he got when he said he didn't have one). I've also been hiking with Dingo and Gearhead, as well as Road Runner and Cory (a.k.a. Don Juan), and Hungry Horse and Float (until a leg injury made him drop back). Except for 35 year Dingo, all in their early twenties. For some reason my old man shuffle has matched their variously partying paces and unorthodox hiking styles. It helps that I started at Springer already having hiked for over 4 weeks, and having previous experience. Plus the mouse traps I carry to ensure peaceful nights in shelters.

I introduced myself as Old Blue, the name that finally attached to me in Maine in 2000, after almost 2,000 miles without one. Old because I was older, as was my gear, Blue due to my passion for grazing on the August ripe blueberries on and off the trail in Maine. It was kind of JD to finally let me in on the generational joke. In the Will Ferrell movie Old School (which came out in 2003), "Old Blue" is a 70 year old who joins their fake fraternity and ends up having a heart attack jello wrestling two coeds.
And in this photo, taken from where I was tenting at Fontana, you can see how the party followed me up the hill from the shelter to the picnic table near the privy. Note that the odd guy (self-styled as "Nomad Ned") in the white shirt and obviously out of shape was not really hiking, just hanging out for the party, "yellow-blazing" -- traveling by car.

The trail

Climbing up above 6,000ft today was like suddenly being in New Hampshire or Maine, in the dense, damp and mossy spruce and frasier fir stands. The last two plus weeks have been great, despite the humidity and risk of thunderstorms. The azaleas are blooming lower down, but the rhodadendrons still haven't. The trail tunnels through these tangles as it winds along steep hillsides, until finally cresting up top. Most of these "balds" are mainly forested, with limited views. The true balds (open, grass covered hilltops) are further north in NC.




Tree gnome

Rattlesnake on Rocky Top

We had heard that someone saw a very large rattler here, and it was still there the next morning when we climbed over it. Apparently this is the time of year they shed their old skin and the new skin will be much brighter. Very lethargic in the cool mist. Note how old it is, based on the number of rattles on the tail.

Clingman's Dome, 6,655ft. Highest point on the AT

Some clouds and mist, but better views than in the rain in 1982.
Decided to hitchhike into Gatlinburg for food, beer, shower and one night away from bugs and the loud snores of the other hikers in the shelters. I'll try to catch up on the blog with the pictures I've taken.


Sunday, May 25, 2014

Trail magic!

I'm at Fontana Lake, watching the packs of the other guys while they go into the village, when a boat pulls in. On board, Spuds and John, two guys I last saw at Nantahala, where they took a day off. They ran into a high school friend completely randomly, vacationing with her family nearby. They've been having fun off trail, and just got dropped here to continue hiking (skipping all those tough climbs). But they brought a picnic, and now I'm stuffed.

Cable Gap

After Friday morning's hard climb and then afternoon off, yesterday's 15 miles felt right with less humidity and clear views. One climb up Cheoah Bald, followed later by the steep rise called "Jacob's ladder," then a 1 1/2 hour lunch break/siesta. Afternoon was just 6 miles to this 1937 Civilian Conservation Corps shelter, where we all tented, topping off a pretty nice day.





Friday, May 23, 2014

Sassafrass Gap

Thnderstorm last night cooled the air but this morning it was very muggy and murky as I climbed slowly up out of the gorge. Decided to stop for the day at lunch time to rest and relax before the bigger climbs in the Smokies. Nice breeze up here in the gap (and cell service) but not down at the shelter.

Thursday, May 22, 2014

Wesser/Nantahala River

More terrific views from the Wesser Bald firepower. Humidity and steep climbs, then long descent to Natahala River, a big whitewater rafting area. Met up with bunch of young hikers with whom I've shared shelters, so we're sitting by the river, soaking our feet in the too cold water drinking beer.




Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Wayah Bald

Warmer, but wind helps dry sweat and keep the bugs off. Amazing view from the stone tower on top of Wayah, elevation 5,324ft. Past few days I've enjoyed the company and conversation of several hikers. I learned about surveying from 25 year old Steppenwolf -- who knew that
anyone still read Herman Hesse? And about defense analysis from 49 year old Third Wind, retired from air force and then doing the same work as government employee. And that that "big mouse" back in VA was a wood rat, according to 63 year old and twice retired John (air force then high school teaching). But they went into Franklin for resupply and motel, so I'm on my own now.



Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Mt. Albert firetower, 5,250ft at base

Terrific panorama, Smoky mountains faint on horizon. Warming up, and black flies biting, but windy enough up on tower to keep them off.

Monday, May 19, 2014

Standing Indian shelter

Lovely pleasant day, cool, clear and not humid. Warmer weather tomorrow, but up here in the hills at elevations above 4000 ft. and climbing should still be ok all week.

Sunday, May 18, 2014

Post mortem

I've been thinking a lot about Rodney, as I hike where we walked in 1982. I think it appropriate for me to write down all the details as I understand them of his last days,  to share and to preserve them, and perhaps help to accept this still shocking and untimely event. This is my attempt at explanation, and of expiation. This blog is the easiest place to make it, as I sit out a rain day in Hiawassee, Georgia.

On Sunday April 13, 2014, Rodney and I left the hostel at Buena Vista, VA, getting shuttled to the trail head late morning after a relaxing and pleasant chat over coffee and tea with the owner. On trail, we encountered several sets of northbound thru-hikers, and stopped and chatted with a group of 4 at the first shelter. We had already heard about the stomach bug common in central VA, and these hikers confirmed this. There was a bag of midget tootsie rolls in the shelter, which the hikers said had been left by a father and son hiking south with a dog just ahead of us. Rodney and I couldn't resist, and ate some. We soon passed the two on the trail, saying hello and moving on. We walked that afternoon to the next shelter, and assumed the father and son would show up eventually. We gathered wood for the fire, ate dinner as it got dark, and started reading in our sleeping bags before sleeping. We both woke up when we heard the son arrive--their dog had jumped into the shelter and laid down right next to Rodney. The son sat outside for a while, waiting for his father in the dark. We went back to sleep. He apparently started a fire and cooked behind the shelter, and eventually came into the shelter, wrapping himself up in a noisy tarp. They had thrown away one of their two sleeping bags, and the father had the other one. By morning we realized the father had not shown up, but the son said he was probably sleeping on the trail somewhere. They were just out for a few days during the son's school break. He was also carrying a large machete, and after we left the shelter that morning we joked about how he might have knocked off his father along the trail. Perhaps the father fell ill with the same stomach flu, which I learned later was highly contagious and was widespread in the local towns, not just among hikers. Could the tootsie rolls have infected Rodney? We had been sharing the same water, food, life all along.
So that Monday morning, April 14 we hiked normally, up steeply and then along a ridge. One highlight was encountering two very attractive young women at a trail junction, just starting on a 5-day hike north unfortunately, as Rodney said "looking like aerobic instructors" with their cute leggings and hair perfectly in place. We joked that northbounders would be running up the trail after we told them what was ahead. We climbed down the ridge toward the James River, stopping at John's Hollow shelter for lunch. Again, all seemed normal, the only new thing was Rodney saying he felt like taking a nap after eating. He looked fine at least as I recall. But since the next shelter was only 4 mostly flat miles away, and we knew rain was coming tomorrow, we decided to just get there early to gather firewood and setup for what might be a rain day at the shelter. We walked together uphill to get back on the trail, but then, perhaps 1/2 mile from our lunch stop, Rodney said he felt lightheaded and needed to sit down. He put his pack down, sat on it and immediately doubled over and vomited violently, with even his false teeth flying out. I waited with him, he drank some water, and after about 15 minutes he got up and said he could walk on. Neither of us mentioned doubling back to the last shelter, so I assumed he felt well enough to make it downhill to the bridge over the river and then the few miles to Matts Creek shelter. He went more slowly then usual, but seemed to be okay about walking. As we approached the shelter he even stooped to pick up some firewood from the trail. After dropping packs we both gathered more wood, again, as normal. He didn't complain, but later said he didn't feel like eating any dinner, so I cooked over the fire and ate alone. We went to bed, and he read as usual. Later that night I heard him get up quickly and vomit over the edge of the shelter, but there was little evidence of food, just clear fluid or phlegm. The rain started heavily during the night and continued the whole next day, so we just stayed in our bags. Rodney didn't feel like eating, but was drinking the water I fetched to purify. We read and napped, with just a few hikers stopping briefly to snack out of the rain. The ridge runner was one of them, and I talked with her for a while. The stream was swollen from all the rain and we agreed it was too high to cross, so she turned back. Rodney, while looking ashen seemed normal, given his illness--in my experience he usually would just stop eating and try to  sleep when sick. Wednesday the 16th was sunny, and Rodney suggested I hike on without him, that he would catch up later. The stream was still high though, and instead I figured I could easily walk back to the road and hitch a ride to the nearest town for more food, specifically ginger ale, bananas, crackers, etc., things that he could readily digest. I got a ride after waiting about 20 minutes, stopped at the public library to check email, blog, recharge, then shopped. As I sat outside the store eating a quick snack, a kind woman stopped and offered me $20 so I could "get a hot meal." I didn't realize I looked so bad myself, but I assured her that the nicest thing she could do was drive me back to the trailhead, which she gladly did. Pauline, a good Christian with lung cancer, asked if I minded while she smoked a cigarette with the car windows open a bit. At the trailhead she insisted I take the $20, so I assured her I would give it to Rodney and that he would appreciate it greatly. Back at the shelter that afternoon Rodney drank the ginger ale and ate a banana, and started eating crackers, and seemed to be improving. He said he still felt light headed and slightly nauseous, and stayed in his sleeping bag the rest of the day reading and napping. He was slow returning once from the privy, but just said he felt tired.
Thursday Rodney ate some oatmeal and a banana for breakfast, had crackers for lunch, and then a rice dinner. He said he still felt weak, and that he didn't think he wanted to walk up the steep ridge ahead of us the next day. We agreed that I would leave in the morning, and that he would  hitch a ride to the next town while I hiked the 3 days it would take to get there. I told him that the easiest solution would be to ask passing day hikers on Saturday or Sunday to drive him, or just walk back the flat 2 miles to the road and hitch. I told him to call or get someone to contact me if he would be delayed past Monday morning. Later that night he got up quickly and vomited again, but in the morning I looked and it was just clear fluid again, no food particles. He seemed sheepish when I mentioned it, I think he hoped I hadn't heard him. But once again he still didn't complain, and strongly encouraged me to leave, that he didn't want to "wreck" my hike by holding me up any longer. So I left him at 8am on Friday. The stream was still high, but I was able to cross without getting too wet. As I climbed up the switchbacks directly across from the shelter I looked back and there was Rodney, at the edge of the shelter, moving his hat in big sweeping movements back and forth, waving goodbye.

As I hiked the next few days, I told oncoming hikers about Rodney, and asked them to check in on him, give him water, etc. A few had access to cars, so I asked if they could drive him, but none seemed willing or going in that direction. I had a great 3 days of hiking, up over one mountain above 4,200 ft. and got to the town park in Troutville late Sunday afternoon. I fully expected to see Rodney there offering me a beer.
I stayed in the park that night, with a few cyclists, and the next day another hiker arrived from the north. He said he talked with Rodney Friday noon, and that Rodney had told him about our plan to meet. I waited around on Monday, got a ride to the grocery for resupply, and still expected Rodney to show up. Instead, I heard that evening from our brother Jack that he had been notified that Rodney was dead, from gastrointestinal bleeding.

Rodney had been found unresponsive Monday morning, April 21st. The police told me that hikers staying at the shelter Easter Sunday talked with him, and Rodney told them that he "wasn't having a good day." On Monday they had to hike to the road before getting cell service to call 911, around 9:20am. He was still in his sleeping bag, so we could assume he died in his sleep. The police said that a family of day hikers, after reading about this in the newspaper, reported that they had stopped and had lunch at the shelter on Saturday, had talked with him and given him food and water. Rodney apparently did not ask them for any other assistance. The police gave me their address and I have since written to thank them, but have not heard back from them.
On Wednesday, before catching a bus home, I arranged for Rodney's cremation, and met with the police to collect his few possessions, which  included some of the food the family had given him on Saturday--part of a ham sandwich, banana, etc. The police did offer the sad fact that a plastic bag was found under the shelter, with trash and some evidence of tarry stools -- indicative of internal bleeding. I can only conclude that at some point Rodney was too weak to walk uphill to the privy.

As to why Rodney didn't ask for assistance, or try to send a message to me by way of northbound hikers with cellphones, I do not know. I can only assume he decided to deal with this situation in his own way, on his own terms, as he had been doing all along for years. His death at some point, likely along the Appalachian Trail or some other trail, was not entirely unexpected given the way he chose to live. He didn't complain, and didn't ask for help.

Rain day, Top of Georgia hostel

Light rain all night and into the morning, cold and damp, making it easy to just stay another day. House has fireplace, free pastry and tea, and a computer. Good day to read, rest, nap, and eat my fill of leftover food in the hiker box. The two 22 year olds left early, too eager this early, their youthful enthusiasm fortunately not contagious.

Saturday, May 17, 2014

Dicks Creek Gap

Staying out of the rain at the Top of Georgia hostel near Hiawassee, newly opened this March. Got the tour of this nice friendly town when shuttled to the grocery store. The library was closed but found a few books at the thrift store. Only 8 miles to the NC border, but more rain forecast for tomorrow. I've been enjoying this cool weather, perfect for hiking since it keeps the bugs down. But warmer weather will return soon enough.

Thursday, May 15, 2014

Hogpen Gap

Lunch break in the mist and fog. Flame azaleas provide the only color in this green world

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Neel Gap

Taking it slow in northwest Georgia, adjusting to humidity and bugs. First night out I was glad I was in shelter when thunderstorm hit. More rain expected so tonight I'm at a hostel right on the trail, the basement of the outfitters store in Neel Gap, directly below Blood Mt. The trees outside the store are loaded with pairs of worn out hiking boots tossed up into the branches. 


Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Hawk Mountain

May 13


Jim writes:

We held the memorial celebration for Rodney on Saturday; then I took the train south to Georgia on Sunday. I said goodbye to Rodney on top of Springer and will spread ashes on Katahdin later this summer.
For now I'm heading north for the Smokies, and then Hot Springs NC. Will likely get off the trail then to visit friends and head home. I guess I'm doing my 2nd AT hike as a section hiker.

                                                   
                            

May 12, Springer Mountain


May 12, Springer Mountain